NEWS







Two years ago, while I was searching for some new projects, I found one of the most perfect arete I had ever seen! Unfortunately, that was one of the last days of the trip and I couldn't come back! After that moment, I have been thinking at this boulder every single day of my life, until the point of being mad of it! Still one year after that visit, this arete was the first thought I had every early morning! Time passed by and I quitted to think about it in a obsessive way.. Until the other day! Revisiting this good friend of mine has been great and I was excited to see it with some chalk on! Today I carried several pads up on the steep hill and I finally managed the first ascent of "Goemon"! 🗡 One of the best gems in the whole country! Thanks to @marco__giorgio for the pictures and to be part of this great exploration! @adidasterrex #adidasterrex @flathold @frictionlabs #chalkmatters

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Ups and downs is the story about my last trip to Helsinki from the past fall. The video tells about the positive and the negative sides of a week around the city and it also reflects several features of my life in general: old school style, deep passion for rock, darkness charm, few successes, lot of fails and a first-sight love for Finland. It includes some stunning problems put up by @nalle_hukkataival as "The Globalist" and "Circus Elephant Syndrome" and the bizzare way how I got my nasty shoulder injury. Check out the full story/video using the link in my BIO or directly on my Facebook profile! Video by @bluekangoofilms #followthereaper #areyoudeadyet? #bodombeachterror @frictionlabs #chalkmatters @adidasterrex #adidasterrex @flathold @climbskinspain

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Surfing out the perfect wave of "Flora" at Vallée Casse-Pot the other day. This beautiful and immaculate piece of rock pops out from an idyllic garden full of moss which made me feel at ease every time I visited it. The difficulty of the problem evolves in the upper section where a really techinical, balancing and unique mantle-move kicked me out of the proper angle every time. Despite the moderate grade, this line trapped me for 3 days because of its weirdness and last year I had to leave without any success 🙈 When I came back the other day the freezing was real! After few hours of struggle I found myself at the top without any explanation why that move actually happened! Even now I can't really visualize the way I executed it. It was one of those rare no-self-control feelings that makes bouldering so special! It's always nice to learn new tricks here in the Forest! 🌲 📷 @ciaoandreacossu @adidasterrex #adidasterrex @flathold @frictionlabs #chalkmatters

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"L'Idiot" in Bas Cuvier! This sandbag V10 stands in the middle of the busiest sector in the world, right next to the famous "Marie-Rose" put up in 1946. I was wondering how many climbers have passed through these stones during the last 7 decades. I have always looked at this wall, wondering why nobody was interesting in trying and why it counts less ascents comparing to the rest. Yesterday, 11 years after my first time in Cuvier, I decided to touch it. I soon got why nobody really talks about this line. It acutally takes a bit of effort to understand what to do and to finally appreciate it. After struggling a lot on some of the single moves, I managed to do it twice and it was really enjoyable. Give it a look next time you stop in cuvier 😊 Check the video in my today's IG story! @danielaebler with the 📷 @adidasterrex #adidasterrex @flathold @frictionlabs #chalkmatters

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“Ouroboros” Rocher des Princes 🐍 The snow is making everything harder here in the forest, but with a bit of extra effort I managed to find a piece of dry rock. 2 days ago, when the snow quitted, I grabbed a ladder and I went to clean this little boulder, located in a shady and hidden sector of the Forest. Entering in such a thick and white wood was definitively suggestive, but it was also depressing since everything was damp and soaked. I anyway tried to remove the layer of snow from every hold and I hoped it could dry before Thursday, which was the only sunny day in the forecast. After 2 hours of work I came back home being sure it was just a loss of time and energy. Yesterday the weather was freezing but sunny, so I made it back to Rocher des Princes to see how it was. Surprisingly it was basically dry! 😁 I couldn’t really believe it. Moreover, the friction wasn’t even too bad! Since my arm is still sore, the next problem to face was warming up, especially being in such a freezing condition. Of course I didn’t have many choices, so I patently warmed up on the moves. It wasn’t certainly the best way, but it worked out pretty fine. The snow from above the trees was dropping every now and then. Sometimes it hit the crucial sloper, other times it dropped on the pads, making everything a bit more annoying. After few goes I got decent links. After the first rest in the cold I climbed the entire small, but long, problem. At the top I realized this is my first “hard” problem after 5 months of recovering and it is nice it happened in such a wild, bizarre and extreme condition! I think sometimes it is just worthy to step out of the comfort zone and believe in something which is not 100% rational. This time it has all been paid off! @adidasterrex #adidasterrex @flathold @frictionlabs #chalkmatters

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I am definitively not a big fan of this tool. I mainly think that training my physical strength on the hangboard could be just an illusory idea of being a better climber. In most of the cases, it's highly likely that the strength you train keeps remainig stuck into your arms, instead of being part of the smooth flow that climbing requires. Additionally, many exercises can be really traumatic within a medium or long term of using. These are some of the reasons why I have seldom practised on the board and I basically quitted it after the first attempts more than 8 years ago. Despite this, there is still an isometric exercise that I keep doing when I am not travelling. This program works on some simple and isometric deadhangs, using both hands on the 2000 @beastmakers crimps. I find this schedule way safer than any other exercise and it feels so beneficial to build some finger strength. The exercise I am doing is just a mental effort to keep the fingers angle on the 90° and to not let the position going down. This workout can isolate the strength in a better way into my fingers and, most important, I can tranfer it into my climbing gesture in an easier way. Finally, only the fingers are involved into this process and the rest of the body is basically not strained. It feels like training the fingers being seated on the home couch 😎 During these days I am working a lot on these isometric stuff and it feels I am slowly balancing the strength gaps between my left and right fingers. 📷 @marcozanone @adidasterrex #adidasterrex @flathold @frictionlabs #chalkmatters

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During the last month I could finally check the home wall that I have made with @flathold. Despite the insane warm summer that is hitting full force, I still had a lot of fun training with some friends as @luca_bazooka_rinaldi @rikitotomonetta @eni88. The style is pretty far from both the old and the new school of climbing gyms. It's in fact a good test bench for my technical skills like precision, toe hooks and knee bars. It also requires a lot of patience in the sending process, taking care of the skin and squeezing hard in the right moment! Something different and cool in a little and dusty hayloft 😉 Last but not least, it is painless for my injury! Now off to Friedrichshafen for a couple of days 🇩🇪 For those that will be at the tradeshow, see you there! @adidasterrex @flathold @lasportivagram #livewithoutlimits
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Back home from France! 🇫🇷 It has been a great trip overall! I left home one month ago without any expectations and I finally managed to climb 4 full weeks on the best problems in all Fontainebleau! 💎 The trip featured big ups and also few downs, and it was definitively rich of weird contrasts! Feelings played from the bright to the dark sides during all the weeks! I have spent most of my time in a deep solitudine, but I also shared some wonderful days with good friends as @00pellet @e.bocchiovega @marci_bomb and @remyerbo! Had the joy to climb some amazing boulders like "Menhir", "Pierre, Feuille, Ciseaux" and "Pirouette Cacaouette", but on the dark side it was sad and ridiculous to see the path that the bouldering world is taking. On a brighter side again, I felt strong on some ascents like "Illusion du Choix" or "Zeus", then extremely weak and sore on other climbs because of the finger pain and not only. Had some days with no fear, while other mornings I could barely get out of home. Other days counts millions of ascents, then other moments were just about hikes and checks to some "unknown" areas that I would never thought to visit. Everything is anyway set to have a great trip for the next time! Finally everything has been completed with a couple of lovely tourism days in Paris and Lyon, before getting back home. It's now time to start the real injury recovery! France, thanks a lot for having me once again! You have always given me some of best feelings ever! See you next time! @adidasterrex @lasportivagram @flathold
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Well, it has been a week since my last climbing day here Vegas. No matter when or where you are, bouldering is often a game between joys and frustrations. Last Tuesday was my third session on "The Nest", the famous testpiece put up by @dawoods89 in 2013.  After the exhausting hike, I reached the boulder, surrounded by the lovely loneliness of First Creek Canyon. During the warm up I had some positive expectations and the first window opportunity was open.  My beta for the crux includes a violent triple bump to stick the third slopy hold of the rail.  Since the first day, that sloper has always rejected me. Right after the bump, I need to stay very low with the body, cross the right hand on a sidepull and finally make the last move to the safety jug up left (picture). I have been struggling a lot with this crossing because of my skin. I knew I needed a tough skin to do it, so after days of skin care I got what the boulder required. With all the positive vibes on my side, I quickly re-climbed the stand start. Then I made my first real go of the trip. The climbing went smooth until the triple bump.  I couldn't get the sloper as I wanted so I fell on the comfortable tree-nest beneath the wall. I pulled on that hold just few seconds after, to simulate the real endurance conditions that the problem would have required me from the bottom.  As soon as I moved my right hand I felt an awful pop from the deep of my medium left pulley.  At first I couldn't tell anything since I was surprised and a bit shocked about my first finger snap.  I hesitated to pull on the rock to check if it was very bad, but feeling pain twisting my water bottle I quickly realized I had to quit. Hard to tell if it's serious or if it is a pain which fade off with some days of rest. Sure this is not the best thing that could have happened in one of my favorite place in the world.  But on a lighter and more positive note, I loved to be under this problem three years later my first check.  Getting relatively close has meant a big step to me. This makes me very excited to come back one day. There are so many hidden gems I still want to climb in Red Rocks and I can’t wait to heal! 📷 @samdavisphoto
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Three years ago I went to check this Peter Lowe's project in Oak Creek Canyon. It was January 2014 and @nalle_hukkataival had recently made the first ascent. None of the boulders I had seen before made me fall in love like this one only did: amazing orange/beige shades, perfect texture, awesome holds and many other features which are outstanding. I unfortunately hadn't occasion to make any attempts that day, since I only had two pads and I felt very scary. So I left Red Rocks without even try it. Since that morning, I have seen tons of other boulders, but "Clogging the Feed" has always been the first in my mind. I knew that one day I would have made a trip back to Vegas and this line was the main reason to return. It was my favorite at that time and it still is the best to me, I thought. But yesterday I was even more excited because I had the real chance to put my hands on it. After a couple of top rope sessions, the game was finally on. The temperatures were very warm though, so I needed to cool down my skin every time before pulling. I made a couple of goes, falling in the middle where the crux involves a violent left hand move from a sloper to a slopy crimp. Then I reached a decent focus zone, finding myself with the hold in my left hand. I topped it out, enjoying an incredible view in the middle of the desert. Hard to tell, but after so many years of bouldering this could be the best problem I have ever done. I reckon it should be the 4th ascent after Nalle, Jimmy and Daniel, but please sign a comment if I forget someone who did it. Huge thanks to @nilsfavre for the perfect spot and this cool screenshot from our video! #flatholdtrip @flathold @adidasterrex @lasportivagram #travelling #bouldering #rockclimbing #outdoors #livewithoutlimits #redrocks
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The last month has been very crucial for my elbow. I had three weeks of training and one week off. I could understand my  injury much better than in the past and I still have a lot to learn about this recovery process. Elbow injury is very weird: most of the time it is frustrating, while other times it gives you motivation to keep improving and heal. I tried to analyze all the details while I was training, by seeing what is okay doing and what feels dangerous. With a consistent routine of specific elbow excercises and ice, I could work on some skills and not be bothered. The sort of things I can do now is actually limited, but it's certaintly better than nothing. For example I can't do pull ups or rock climbing, but I feel safe climbing at the gym or hanging on some crimps. Looking at the positive sides seems to be the good way to recover! 😀 Let's see what November can bring! #bouldering #training #recovery @lasportivagram @flathold @adidasoutdoor #livewithoutlimits
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I have been thinking about this prow since the first day of the trip, when Stuart carried me around Quantum field, one of the old school sector of the basin. The stunning prow is very visibile, logical and tall with a beautiful and smooth limestone on both sides. I quickly realized it was going to be one of those lines that only counts the holds you really need. I knew the game would have been fun and very technical as for the most part of the other lines in the area. The tall and slopy top out made the whole experience even tougher for me. Every single attempt has been enjoyable, every failure built a solid progress where just a little detail could make a big difference. Yesterday was one of those good moment where all the beauties of bouldering come together in a single, perfect and unforgettable flow. "Biotronic" is the name! @adidasoutdoor @flathold @lasportivagram #bouldering #rockclimbing #livewithoutlimits
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Weird to say, but months ago I revisited a boulder with bolts. I have always kept away from sport climbing and ropes; but last December I checked this wonderful arete, bolted by a friend of mine back in 2009. I first looked for a bouldering way, but I couldn't see myself climbing on such a tall wall. Maybe for someone, not for me. I hence dropped down, cleaning the holds and miming the hard moves. For the first time, I opted to make an exception and I somehow didn't reject the idea of a sport ascent. For me, climbing with rope and bolts feels definitively frustrating. I can't feel totally free and I somehow can't not express the climbing as it should be according to my vision. Due to the very high quality of the route, I anyway feel to make an exception and give me a chance. Last Saturday, I made my first attempts from the bottom, trying to get a decent mood with rope climbing. Feelings are now a quarrel of love and hate at the same time. I don't know how much longer this precarious balance can keep me excited. Until it goes, I will try to follow it. #bouldering #rockclimbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #escalade #outdoors
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